The Philippines bids farewell to Margarita Araneta Forés, one of the country’s most celebrated chefs and restaurateurs, who passed away at the age of 65.
Known for her mastery of Italian cuisine and her advocacy for Filipino ingredients, Chef Margarita leaves behind a legacy as rich and layered as the flavors she so lovingly crafted.
Her journey is one of reinvention, perseverance, and a deep love for food that has taken her across continents—from the bustling streets of New York to the charming kitchens of Italy and back home to Manila, where she can be said to have transformed the local dining scene.
PEP.ph (Philippine Entertainment Portal) pays tribute to the pioneer of Filipino-Italian fusion fine dining in the country.
Read: Restaurateur and chef Margarita Fores dies at 65
A Taste for Adventure
Born on March 23, 1959, into the illustrious Araneta and Forés families, Margarita’s life was never short of opportunities.
Her grandfather, J. Amado Araneta, was the visionary behind the 35-hectare Araneta Center in Cubao, while her other grandfather, Dr. Jose Y. Forés, was a pioneering surgeon and one of the founders of Makati Medical Center.
Despite these towering legacies, Margarita carved her own path, and it was one that led her to the world of food.
Her journey may be said to have started not in a professional kitchen but in the vibrant food culture of New York City, where her family moved when she was a freshman at Assumption College in San Lorenzo, Makati.
In the Big Apple, she found solace in weekend visits to a humble Italian-American restaurant, where she unknowingly took her first bite of inspiration.
This newfound curiosity for Italian cuisine simmered in her heart and would later become her life’s work.
Her academic path took her through Marymount School of New York and Mount Holyoke College, but after two years she returned to the Philippines, finishing her degree in accountancy at Assumption College.
Though numbers made sense on paper, it was flavors and textures that apparently stirred her soul.
Life took her to Hong Kong, where she dabbled in finance as a trainee for Axona Holdings.
Yet, as the economic climate shifted, so did her aspirations.
She found herself back in New York, working in fashion, rubbing elbows with the likes of Salvador Dalí, John F. Kennedy Jr., and Franco Rossellini.
Even with all the glamour, something felt amiss. The kitchen, not the catwalk, was calling her name.
When her grandfather passed in 1985, it marked a turning point.
“They say when major changes happen in a family, it’s an opportunity for other members to also make changes in their lives,” she said to Rogue magazine in 2016.
And so, she turned up the heat on her culinary dreams.
Read: Chef Margarita reveals what she had to do for kinilaw dish she presented at Madrid Fusion
Cooking Up a New Chapter in Italy
In 1986, Margarita packed her bags and set off to Italy.
Without any formal culinary training, she threw herself into the art of Italian cooking, learning from the best—Masha Innocenti in Florence, Jo Bettoja in Rome, and Ada Parasiliti in Milan.
She didn’t just observe—she fully immersed herself in the heartbeat of Italian kitchens, where cooking wasn’t just a task but a cherished tradition woven through generations.
For four months, she honed her craft, perfecting pasta-making and her understanding of Italian cuisine.
In the process of learning recipes, she absorbed the Italian way of life, where food was made with patience, care, and an unshakable respect for ingredients.
It was a far cry from the fast-paced life she had known in New York. Yet, amidst the rolling vineyards and rustic kitchens, she uncovered the true secret to exceptional food: cooking with heart.
Her time in Italy also helped her overcome her struggles with bulimia, showing her that food, when embraced with love instead of fear, could be a source of healing.
Read: Dua Lipa Stops by Margarita Fóres' Grace Park Before Philippine Arena Concert
Bringing Italy to the Philippines
Upon returning home, Chef Margarita wasted no time in igniting Manila’s culinary scene.
She started small with Cibo di M (M's food in English), a catering business where she and two sous chefs prepared meals in people’s homes.
But word of her interesting flavors spread fast. Soon, she found herself orchestrating a food festival at the Hyatt Regency Manila.
In 1997, she took a leap of faith and opened Cibo, her first restaurant designed to bring authentic, affordable Italian cuisine to Filipino diners.
It was a bold move, going head-to-head with gastronomy giants TGI Friday’s and Hard Rock Café.
But her understanding of Italian cooking and a desire to keep her flavors honest kept her going.
Needless to say, the gamble paid off.
Cibo's signature dishes—Spinaci Zola, Penne Al Telefono, La Bistecca (U.S. Rib-Eye Steak), Tagliata Di Manzo (Sliced Beef Tenderloin), and Rigatoni All’Alfonso—are available in all its 30 branches nationwide.
Over the years, her empire grew to include Lusso, Grace Park, and Alta—each offering a distinct take on Italian cuisine.
At Lusso, foodies find themselves coming back for more of the Luxe Truffle Fries, the Spinach Taglierini, Pepato Short Ribs, and the Lobster Roll.
Meanwhile, Grace Park takes pride in its Barquillos Cylinders with Chive Mousse Duetto, Salmon Roe, and Prosciutto.
After battling thyroid cancer in 2006, she leaned further into organic ingredients, pioneering the farm-to-table movement in the Philippines long before it became a global trend.
Her skills and dedication did not go unnoticed.
In 2016, she was crowned Asia’s Best Female Chef, in what she would then describe as being as cathartic as winning Miss Universe.
But beyond the accolades, her pride lay in championing Filipino ingredients—Job’s tears, heirloom rice, and local seafood—on the world stage.
She believed in the magic of Filipino produce and worked tirelessly to elevate it.
Margarita's Lasting Legacy
Even in her final years, Margarita showed no signs of slowing down.
She continued to open restaurants, host international collaborations, and advocate for local farmers.
In May 2024, her restaurant Grace Park Dining ranked 12th on "Opinionated About Dining’s Top Casual Restaurants in Asia" list.
She actually shared a kitchen with celebrity chef Hiroyuki Tamura in creating a fusion dish that married Ilonggo Batchoy with Japanese ramen.
On January 22, 2025, she had the privilege of meeting internationally famous chef Gordon Ramsay at the Farmers’ Market in Araneta City, an encounter that boosted her status as a local culinary star.
Yet, of all her accomplishments, perhaps the most profound was the influence she had on her son, Chef Amado Forés.
Margarita’s love for Italian cuisine and dedication to elevating Filipino flavors found a strong successor in her only child.
Amado initially pursued political science in Massachusetts, but the pull of the kitchen—possibly shaped by years of watching his mother’s work ethic and passion for food—proved irresistible.
In just five years, he established himself as a formidable restaurateur, opening multiple successful dining concepts.
His Italian restaurant, a mano, gained international acclaim, ranking among the best pizzerias in the world.
Amado's ventures, Ramen Ron and Steak & Frice, reflect the philosophy of his mother: honoring tradition while embracing innovation.
Then, on February 11, 2025, the kitchen lights dimmed, and the culinary world lost one of its finest chefs.
Margarita's son, Amado, confirmed her passing on social media, expressing their family's deep sorrow and gratitude for the love and prayers they received.
Though Margarita Forés may have hung up her apron, her legacy continues to simmer, enriching the hearts and kitchens of those she has inspired.
Every bite of perfectly al dente pasta, every dish made with fresh, local ingredients, and every Filipino chef who dares to dream beyond borders carries a piece of her legacy forward.
Fittingly, her final evening was spent indulging in one last remarkable meal.
On the night before her passing, she dined at Prince and the Peacock, the brainchild of Michelin-starred chef Palash Mitra, whose technical precision and inventive approach to cuisine had long fascinated her.
It was a night of exquisite flavors, thoughtful craftsmanship, and the very essence of what she loved most about food—how it tells a story, brings people together, and lingers in memory far beyond the last bite.
She showed her followers that more than just sustenance, food is a love letter to culture, a passport to the world, and a way to bring people together.
And in that, Margarita Forés will always remain at the heart of Filipino cuisine.
Rest in flavor, Chef Margarita. You may have left the kitchen, but your fire will not go out.
